Never. The plants in the filtration zone feed from the dissolved nutrition in the water which is a natural occurance from leaves, dust, etc. Chlorine is only suppressing the availability of the nutrition as food for algae. When chlorine application is stopped the water might turn green within a few days. After time more and more nutrition has to be suppressed by more and more chemicals – and eventually when the water is “unbearably unpleasant” it has to be exchanged. We’ve had pools operating for more than 15 years in Europe and the water was never changed. One system in Australia has been running for more than 3 years, also the water was never changed. Topped up, yes, because of evaporation. The simplest is to connect your roof downpipe directly into the pool with a shut of valve/diverter or overflow from the pool.

The Microbiology living in the porous filtration substrate binds the nutrition in the water and makes it available for the plants in the filtration zone as food. Therefore the dissolved nutrition in the water is removed which otherwise would be food for algae.

The Microbiology living in the water can defeat all the bad bacteria up to 28 Degrees Celsius permanent water temperature. If it goes above 28 Degrees Celsius a few days/year it does not matter, as long as the water temperature is generaly lower.

In pricipal yes, but it has to be tested/confirmed first for no salts, sulfates, etc.

Our extensive manuals provide the owner builder or pool builder with all the knowledge to build Natural Filtration Systems, which suit all types of pools applications. Aquaviva supplies the required essentials for the Natural Filtration System only. The pool building itself – we leave that to the experts. If you are a pool builder or landscaper and would like to get involved with this Exciting New Technolgoy, please contact us.

Simple answer, No. The Natural Pool system is considered to be moving, natural, living water. Mosquitos prefer static, anaerobic waters like puddles.

Bio film is a natural occurrance in living water. Even every crystal clear mountain lake or creek in the Alps grows bio film to some extent. But its also a question of the amount of nutrition in the water. Just because the water is crystal clear does not mean there is no nutrition dissolved in the water. If you can keep the amount of dirt, dust, leaves, or other organic matter getting into your pool to a minimum, then little to no bio-film will form. If it does occur, it is quite simple to remove with e.g. a Creepy Crauwly.

Generally, the smoother the surface the better. The lighter the color the more will any dirt, leaves or dust show. It’s like a white carpet requires more often vacuuming than a darker one. Tiles are generally no problem as they are smooth surfaced, but the concrete based grout can be, as it is porous, and bio film can grow which is hard to remove between the tiles. Acrylic based, non porous grout is fine – but then there is still the gap and the difference in the levels between tile and grout. We have seen granite, natural tiles in some architectural pools, laid gap free. Another advantage of granite is the grainy appearance, which camouflages dirt or dust at the bottom of the pool better than eg. light blue tiles.

Generally, the smoother and darker, the better. The lighter the color the more will any dirt, leaves or dust show. It’s like a white carpet requires more often vacuuming than a darker one. This is why for many Natural Pools liners are used, as they are easy to clean with eg. a Creepy Crauwly.